ماشاء الله موضوع شيق و ممتاز |1|
وعندي لكم كم من سؤال ياليت تجاوبوني عليه .. خصوصاً أني مبتدأ بالأشياء هذي ..
- ماذا يقصد ب rpm يعني هل هو دورة المكينة في الدقيقه ؟؟ ووش الفايده من ذكرها ؟؟
- بالنسبة للكمارو ماهي انواع الكلتشات الأربعة التي تم تغيرها ؟؟ او من اي شركة
- ما هو البرنامج الذي تم اضافتة على السيارة لتعديل اي أضافات ls1 edit وياليت لو تكرمت صاحب الكمارو صور للبرنامج
- هل يعني عدم تغير رؤوس ولا بساتم ولا ثلاجة .. انها جيده وتتحمل العناء ؟؟
واذا تم تغيرها ربما تصلون إلى نتائج أفضل ؟؟
- بالنسبة للثلاجة ما رأيكم بثلاجات venom ?
و بالتوفيق ..
RPM means Revolutions per Minute. Knowing the RPM is important for tuning reasons also. So we can match
the RPM from the dyno and the car PCM to tune the right way. It also helps in knowing when to shift to the next gear and also make sure you don’t hit the limiter because doing so alot will damage something in the engine when you are running boost. No fuel and air will cause a lean condition and can cause the damage I’m talking about.
I broken the stock clutch when I had 348rwhp 363rwtq at the 1/4mile strip
We changed to SPEC 3 Carbon/Carbon clutch and the clutch did hold up to 900miles and gave me a 12.7 at 111mph run, but then it broke too
So SPEC 3 gave me another one for free to try it again and around 1000 miles it broke without giving me any good runs at the track. The flywheel was stuck to the disc and we couldn’t even drive the car back.
After that I got Mcleod Kevlar/Organic clutch and it held just fine. I added the cam and ran the car with 392rwhp 385rwtq to a 12.3 at 114mph, but I noticed that the Mcleod doesn’t grip as hard as the SPEC Carbon. Also the Mcleod don’t like to be run hot… for example no back to back runs at the 1/4mile… You have to let the car cool down or the clutch will slip. Also at the road course track the Mcleod showed some mushiness where the pedal engagement point started changing due to heat.
The good thing about the Mcleod is that it lasted 6000 miles and was running fine until I added the Supercharger which added 165rwhp to around 550rwhp and took it to the track.
The Mcleod gave me one run with some slippage at 1st, 3rd and 4th gear limiting the car to run 12.3 at 124mph. As you can see the MPH is only 9mph higher which means I’m losing around 60-70HP due to this clutch and also my ET was still 12.3 because the bad 60ft due to the clutch slipping.
The nice thing about the Mcleod is that after that bad run I let it cool down and drove the car back home. I then drove the car on the streets for another 1500miles with no slippage or problems, but it just can’t handle the power when the tires grip. So I’m changing now to a new clutch so I can run my car at the track with the new added power.
Now I’m installing a new Clutch called Textrailla from Australia which is rated for 800rwtq. I hope this clutch will give me my high 10/low 11 sec run next. I will write a feedback on it later when I test it.
The LS1Edit program basically changes the stock ECU parameters based on your command. You need to change certain things inside the program to tune a car. Check Carputing.com for screenshots and more information about it. Here is one
http://carputing.tripod.com/images/3dgraph.jpg.
I mean I will be writing until tomorrow trying to explain what LS1Edit does lol. You can read it from the website and if you need more info I can give you websites to visit.
Changing heads and intake manifold with boosted application will net HP gains, but it is smaller gains compared to the gains you get from other mods such as cam. The HP/$ ratio will be small which is why I didn’t do it until now. It’s easier to add boost now than to spend $2700 for heads so I can gain 20-30whp. I will do it later on when I’m trying to find every last lost HP in my setup, but not now.
Pistons and rods on the other hand are really important for a boosted application. The stock pistons limit is around 550rwhp and the rods will handle 600-650rwhp so im pushing the pistons over the limit now and I know that.
Forged lower Compression pistons will allow you to run more boost without detonation and will handle the slight knock better in case a tune was off.
I will tell you what I’m planning to do next so you can see my logic:
First I’m going to a forged iron short block with 8.5 C/R.
Then the fuel system will have to be custom with a return and FPR in the front. Also the fuel rails and injectors will have to be upgraded and alky system to aid the pump gas.
Then I’m going to start tuning with either 2 or 3 bar setups instead of MAF.
Then bump the boost levels to the Max that the SC will give from 16-19psi.
Then I will start looking at some heads to find the last few HP lost.
Then I will upgrade my headers from 1 ¾ to 1 7/8 and my Y-pipe/catback to X-pipe with 3” dumps before the rear axle.
After all that I will add NOS to reach my goal rwhp because this D-1SC SC won’t get me there on boost alone.
So as you can see I’m going to do the heads, but not now due to the high cost with less gains than the others. Hope this helps explain everything to you.
Sorry for the long write up
